Sheffield Telegraph, 7^th April 06

Fish lovers delight with the fresh Catch experience.

Eating Out: In search of fresh seafood,. Derek Fish catches up with the latest developments at an award winning restaurant in Crosspool.

Fish on Fish. There’s got to be a catch somewhere. In this particular instance it’s all part of the name game.

When Richard Smith decided to re-vamp his award winning Thyme eaterie in Crosspool at the turn of the year, he went for a two tier approach.

Downstairs became Artisan, a deluxe bistro, while upstairs was given over to a modern, upmarket seafood establishment called Catch.

So with my name it seemed somewhat appropriate that I should give the “fishy” place the once-over. If nothing else its always good for a comment – like the time I signed my credit card slip after eating at a well known fish and chip restaurant in Cornwall, which brought a response of “What a coincidence, we had a Mr Chips in last night…”

She didn’t ask if we were related.

In the case of Catch, it’s the Baker man rather than the fish man who takes priority.

Head chef Jack Baker had a head start – he was born in Colchester where, according to him, you get the best oysters in the world – and he has been involved in the culinary scheme of things since he was 15.

He spent 18 months in the American state of Maryland where he gained inspiration for his Chesapeke seafood chowder (more of that later), Old Bay crab cakes, crab spring rolls and his spicy fish stew among others.

The key to Catch and ultimately Jacks success is the “fresh fish on the day” scenario, coupled with the penchant to keep it simple, with homemade garnishes, seasonal vegetables, chips (when applicable) and potatoes.

Once Jack has decided which fish he would like for any particular day its left to former sous chef Tim Vincent to deliver – and that means a 3am start.

You can even order your own Catch of the Day. If you fancy lobster, langoustines or a loin of cod, for example, then Jack will cook it for you, although he’ll need 48 hours notice.

The fresh on-the-day policy means the menu changes every day. With this in mind, selections are printed on the blackboards, which can be a little time consuming and also hard on the eyes, given the reflective glare from the overhead lighting.

There’s no mistaking, however, that there’s something for everyone, from potted shrimps (£7), fishcakes (£5 starter, £10 main course) and oysters in shallot vinegar (£17 and £16) to Catch fish and chips (£9), whole Dover sole (£20), roast Whitby cod (£16) and half a lobster (£15).

For the more discerning the fruit de mer of half a lobster, oysters, potted shrimps, shell on prawns, scallops, smoked salmon, spicy crab dip, house dipping sauces and homemade bread will set you back £30, while the more wallet conscious could well look to the “early catch” of two courses for £10 and three for £15 available at lunch time and between 6pm and 7pm each evening.

While Catch is on the small side – it has seating for 28 – there’s certainly a buzz about the place, highlighted by Jacks sizzling open kitchen. It also houses a surprise addition, a jukebox, which has a good selection of golden oldies, although the volume control has the customer very much in mind.

Thick slices of malted plus rock salt and garlic breads (£2) were good enough to eat on their own, although they proved a fine accompaniment to my delicious seafood chowder. You can order it by the cup (£4) or the bowl (£6) but as it was a starter I was advised by the waitress to go for the smaller option.

There was still room enough for chunks of tuna, salmon and cod (or was it halibut?), potatoes, carrots and celery in a superb tasting sauce, enhanced by Old Bay spices. A great “warmer” for a cold evening.

“M’s” Queen scallop gratin had a more delicate flavour. The scallop, served in a shell, was cut into small pieces and dressed in a creamy sauce with spinach (£6). Tasty, but a little on the expensive side.

Both of us fancied the baked halibut but in the end I was given the first choice. The thick, chunky piece was perfectly cooked while the roasted tomato and fennel salsa added an intriguing depth of flavour.

Having missed out on the halibut “M” plumped for the whole roasted seabass accompanied with green beans and an olive sauce.

More green beans came with the selection of vegetables which also included mange tout, carrots, courgettes and asparagus.

Choosing a white wine is never easy, especially for a person who prefers red, and with the man-in-the-know, maitre d Tim Treeby, busy running the gauntlet between Catch and Artisan, I settled on a fruity, easy drinking Aussie Colombard / Chardonnay at £15.50. There’s a wide ranging choice nut prices start at £13.50, although a number are available by the glass.

Six desserts also feature on the boards, in the £5 to £6 bracket, while the cheese selection is £7. Taste-wise my crème brulée was a hit but portion-wise it was a real disappointment. No more be said.

The zingy lemon tart was, complete with a fruit coulis and ice cream, was not quite so portion orientated.

The total food bill came to £61.

Verdict: A real fish-eating lovers delight. No-one will quibble that fresh is best….but be prepared to pay for it.

Open: Monday to Friday: Lunch noon – 2:30pm; dinner 6pm – 10pm. All day Saturday, closed Sunday.

Catch, Sandygate Road Sheffield, Tel: 0114 266 6096